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Presenting Tori
“I am a Norwegian crafter and amateur designer of winter accessories like mittens, cowls and hats. I knit more than I crochet, but I like both. I do more colorwork than lace, but I like both. I use more fingering than aran weight, but I like both. I have never been to Iceland, but I hope to go some day. I’m happy to live in a place where the winter is cold and wool garments are necessary. I love colors. You can see more of my colors on my blog,www.torirotsstitches.blogspot.com. You can also find me on Flickr and Ravelry as torirot.”

About the Toasty, Twisty, Tweedy cowl
Tori says: My parents went to Iceland, and came back with some beautiful skeins of Lettlopi for me. I wanted to make something to combine the colors of the four skeins, and I thought: a cowl. I wanted a pattern that could work from both sides, and was quite happy when I found this tweedy, slip stitch pattern. Just for fun, I decided to twist it too.

Size:
The cowl is 22cm/8,6” wide, circumference is 112cm/44”

Materials:
Less than one skein of four different colors of Lettlopi (Lopi light). (I had 9 g left of the brown and the yellow skein (C1 and C4), 12 g left of the red and green skein(C2 and C3) )

Here shown in:
Color 1 1401 brown
Color 2 9421 green
Color 3 1409 red
Color 4 9264 yellow

Circular needle 4mm/US 6, 60cm/24” long.
1 stitch marker

Gauge:
16 sts and 52 rounds in slip stitch pattern = 10 x 10 cm/4 x 4 “
Gauge is not crucial for this project.

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About the Traditional Icelandic Three Cornered Shawl
The three cornered shawls are a part of the Icelandic knitting tradition and were a common outerwear for women on farms in the old days most often worn over the shoulders and tied at the small of the back. This is probably the simplest version of a three cornered shawl. It’s knit from the neck-edge and downwards, so it starts out as only a few stitches, the wingspan grows as increases are worked at the edges and in the middle, and finally you’ll cast off the largest number of stitches. It’s a perfect project to use as a base for a more elaborate edging, but also lovely in it’s simplicity just as it is.

Size:
You decide!

Materials:
6.5mm/US10 ½  needles, straight or circular (note that you can choose a wide range of needle sizes for this project)
1-2 skeins Einband/Nammi/Hespa 50g/1.8oz/225m/246yards. 1 skein will give you a small shawl/scarf and 2 skeins a full sized adults shawl.
Shown here in Nammi by Knitting Iceland.
2 stitch markers

Gauge:
Not important in this project

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About the KI mitts
Edda Lilja says: I don’t think it’s any problem at all to knit a mitten, it’s fun and quick. But to knit the other mitten can sometimes take a whole year. I have a whole bunch of single mittens, because I do love knitting a mitten, just not mittenS.
These mitts are knit in fabulous funky colors that I love, so as soon as I cast the first one off I had my eyes on another color I wanted to try out, so I ended up knitting a few, all in different colors. They look great together, even better than identical pairs. To all of you who have the same “problem” as I do – FINALY YOU’LL BE ABLE TO KNIT A PAIR OF MITTENS!

Size:
One size – fits many.

Materials:
3,5 and 4,5mm/US 4 and 7 double pointed needles or 32” circular (if using Magic loop)
Lopi light, 2 skeins, main color (A) and pattern color (B). 1 skein 50g/1.7oz ~ 100m/109 yards.
Scrap yarn for holding thumb stitches.

Gauge:
18 stitches and 29 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette stitch on 4mm/US 6 needles.

For English speaking knitters the pattern is available on the Westknits website.

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About Freedom
Freedom has its name because it’s totally free and provides limitless possibilities. Making a freedom hat is an excellent opportunity for those who want, or need, to break away from strict patterns and get creative. You decide the look, shape, yarn and colors. Any yarn goes, but I think the best results come from bulky-is and fuzzy-ish yarn. Then it’s just a spiral with some decreases as you work upwards. Don’t hesitate to experiment and rip if you need to. Enjoy the freedom!

Sizes and materials
Size: you decide
Material: Whatever you want to use
Crochet hook(s) to match the yarn you choose.
Gauge: depends on the choices you make

Now, remember this is a description rather than a pattern. It demands that you make some decisions and choices on your own. For good crochet technique videos and descriptions I can warmly recommend Lion Brand’s Learning Center on their web site.

Choose your yarn and a crochet hook that fits the yarn. With bulky yarn and a large hook you’ll get faster results. Fuzzy mohair yarn or Icelandic Lopi is always a good choice and this project is just perfect for odds and ends of yarn rests. A little glitter is always a good addition!

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About Beta’s  mittens
Arndís says: “I made these mittens when I was invited to my friend Beta’s birthday party and only had a day to make a nice present. Of course I didn’t manage to finish the mittens in time but Beta finally got them, although 2 months late! My grandmother Lilla was the one who taught me to knit at the age of five. She is such a source of wisdom when it comes to knitting. You could say she’s my knitting hero!

Sjónabók/ Ornaments and Patterns found in Iceland is an amazing book on patterns from the 17th, 18th  and 19th  century in Iceland.  This pattern is inspired by one of the many beautiful patterns in the book.  For the mittens I used the wonderful and sometimes underrated Kambgarn, merino wool produced in Iceland by the Ístex spinning mill. This yarn that is perfect for mittens, warm and soft. Here´s a tip from my grandmother: if you want them extra warm you can felt them just a little bit.”

About the methods and techniques
The mittens are worked in the round from cuff to fingertips.  Use double pointed needles, the magic loop method or your favorite method to knit small diameters. The thumb stitches are knit with scrap yarn while the mitten is worked and finished in the front, the scrap yarn is pulled out to reveal stitches for knitting the thumb, and the thumb is finished last.  Pattern is worked in cross-stitch after washing and drying the mittens.

Ssk: slip two stitches knit wise, one at a time, knit together through the back loops.

Sizes and materials
Sizes: Women’s small (medium) large.
Materials: 75g/2.65oz (1.5 skeins) of Kambgarn, colorway 0059, black, 50g/1.76 oz, approx. 75m/82yd, and a little bit of Kid Silk Haze by Rowan, 25g/0.88oz, 209m/229 yd or other lace weight leftover yarn
Needles: 2.5mm/US1, long circular or double pointed.
Other: scrap yarn for the thumb, two stitch markers and darning needle for weaving in the ends.
Gauge: 28 stitches x 40 rows = 10x10cm/4×4”

Measured in stockinette stitch using 2.5mm/US1 needles.

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Buy the Little Garter Cardi knitting kit

Here is what Ragga has to say about the cardi:

“This little cardigan was designed under great influence from the late and great Elizabeth Zimmerman, loved by knitters worldwide and known by many as the Yoda of knitting (!). EZ liked to make practical no nonsense garments most often incorporating little tricks that would in some way advance the knitter to a new level of skills or knowledge.”

The cardi was first published along with the instructional knitting DVD “Prjónum saman” (Icelandic), published by Knitting Iceland in 2009.

In this project Lopi light is used with unusually large needles. The unique quality of Lopi allows the knitter to choose from a wide range of needles since the Lopi will “bloom” and fill out the space it is given.

Sizes and materials
Sizes: 3-6 mo (9-12 mo) 2-3 y
Yarn: Lopi light, 50g/1.75 oz, ca. 100m/109yd: 80 (100) 120g / 2.8 (3.5) 4.2 oz
Needles: 80 cm/32” circular needles  7mm/US11
Gauge: 14 stitches x 26 rows = 10x10cm/4×4”
Some scrap yarn in a different color, a needle for weaving in ends and grafting, cute buttons.

About the methods and techniques

The cardigan is knit from the top in garter stitch. The cast on at the neckline is provisional, that means you’ll have live (open) stitches until you finish the neckline with an i-cord cast off right at the end.

An i-cord edge is worked at both edges all the way from the neckline to the hem. The i-cord continues into the i-cord cast off worked both at the hem and the neckline. This creates a seamless i-cord edge all around the opening of the cardigan. I-cord cast off is also used for the sleeves for a cute match.
As you work your way down the shoulder piece, increases are worked to shape the yoke.
Stitches for the sleeves are kept on pieces of scrap yarn while the body is finished.
Buttonholes are made by making a YO followed by K2tog.

I’m from the wonderful area of Skagafjordur, Iceland. Drangey is an island close to where I grew up and I’ve always been captivated by its beautiful shape on the horizon. Full of inspiration from “Skagfjordian Rose-mittens” and with a hint of yearning I drew a pattern of Drangey island to stitch into my mittens. Now I can pop home with just a quick glance at my hands. The mittens can be embroidered with their owner’s initials for a personal touch.”

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Size:
Womens medium. For smaller/larger mittens use smaller/larger needles and yarn that fits.

Materials:
3 and 4mm/US 2 and 6, double pointed needles or 80 cm/32” circular (if using Magic Loop). Lopi light, Icelandic wool, color no. 1404, 1 skein 50g/1.7oz ~ 100m/109 yards. Two stitch markers, scrap yarn for holding thumb stitches, Einband, Icelandic lace weight or other lace weight yarn for cross stitching.

Gauge:
18 stitches and 29 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette stitch on 4mm/US 6 needles.

Method and techniques:
The mittens are worked in the round from cuff to fingertips. The thumb gusset is shaped with increases and thumb stitches are put on a scrap yarn while the mitten is worked to fingertips, thumb is finished last. Pattern is worked in cross stitch.

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Working with the oversized Mr. Jumbo Tunisian crochet hook and the Icelandic un spun Lopi will allow you to discover interesting textures while creating super light and warm garments and accessories.

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Sizes: S – M – L
Materials: Plötulopi, Icelandic un spun Lopi, 100% wool, wheels approx. 110g/3.9oz. The cowls shown call for approximately 65-80g/2.3-2.8oz.
Tunisian crochet hook 18-20mm/0.7-0.8” in diameter
Gauge: 6 stitches x 3.5 rows = 10x10cm / 4×4”

Techniques:
The scarf is worked in the round in Tunisian simple stitch (TSS) and Tunisian purl stitch (TPS) forming a lovely honeycomb like texture.
Each row in Tunisian crochet consists of picking up all the stitches and casting off all the stitches.
When working in the round you need to connect the last picked up stitch with the first stitch in the round below.
Color A is used to pick up stitches (first half of each round). When picking up the last stitch also bring the needle through the first stitch of last row and pull the yarn through.
Color B is used to cast off (second half of each row) remember to pull the yarn through the first loop and then pull the yarn through two loops together working your way back around until two stitches remain on the hook. Switch to color A and pull the yarn through the last two stitches.

Enjoy!

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Sizes and measurements 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8 years approx. See diagram for measurements.

Suggested yarn
Þingborgarlopi, un-spun, single ply: 100- 130-160-195 grams / 3.52-4.58-5.64-6.87 ounces This type of Lopi can only be bought in Iceland in the Þingborg and Hvanneyri craft collectives. I suggest Ístex Plötulopi as an alternative, but in fact any light wool could be used. Just remember to check your gauge.

Accent yarn in small amounts in a few colors. Anything in lace or fingering weight could be used for this purpose. I suggest you check your stash before buying something new!

Needles
For skirt in garter stitch: Circular or straight needles 5mm/US8 For sleeves in stockinet stitch: 80cm/32” circular needles 4mm/US6 (for magic loop method) or double pointed needles if you prefer. Other: Crochet hook 4.5mm/US7

Gauge
Garter stitch on 5mm/US8 needles: 10 x 10 cm/4 x 4” = 15 stitches and 30 rows Stockinet stitch on 4mm/US6 needles: 10 x 10 cm/4 x 4” = 21 stitches and 26 rows

Methods
The tunic is knit in two pieces. The skirt is knit in garter stitch back and forth lengthwise and shaped with short rows that make it flair at the bottom. The skirt is sewn or grafted together at the back. The other part makes up both the sleeves and the shoulder and neckpiece and is mostly knit in the round. Starting at the wrist the first sleeve is knit in the round, then back and forth over the shoulder and neckpiece while shaping the neckline, then connecting in the round again to knit the other sleeve, casting off at the wrist. When both pieces are ready they are sewn together at the chest.